I do as much maintainence as I can to my GTI for several reasons. I've been disappointed with the treatment I get from the average dealer. They're usually overpriced, and I haven't found an independent that I trust in Minnesota yet. Plus, it gives me a chance to learn more about my VW, and cars in general. And it plain feels good. I get my info from the 1993-1996 version of the Bentley Service Manual for Jetta, Golf, GTI, and Cabrio. It's recommended by VW, and (supposedly) is much better than the Haynes manuals for most American cars. And of course, from the never ending flow of info from other GTI VR6 owners, thanks to the email list here, or a web echo here (driver/hired).

MAINTAINENCE & MODS:

• Front brake rotors/pads. At 60k mi I switched my worn stock front brakes with ATE PowerDisc slotted rotors and Mintex Redbox pads (with wear sensors). The pedal feels a little firmer now. Very low brake dust, unlike the dust-storm stock pads. Cold braking performance identical to stock, and warm mught be a little better. The slots on the rotors show wear, when there's no slot left, its time to replace the rotor. Cost me $170 for parts from New Dimensions. Took a _long_ time for me to replace, because I had a stuck rotor screw. Otherwise, it was very easy to do yourself. (About six months later, one of the two bolts holding the caliper in place fell out, causing the caliper to rub against the wheel. Make sure you tighten all bolts to factory specs!)
• Exhaust impressions without suitcase I've removed the middle exhaust resonator called the suitcase. It sat between the cat and the muffler. There's some performance gained by removing the ~30lb piece and replacing it with a mandrel bent section of 2.25" diameter pipe. There's more power available from 3500 RPM to the 6500 RPM redline. There was some power lost between 2000 and 3000 RPM until I replaced the stock air filter with a K&N element (all was restored). This also coinsides with a resonance at those RPM. It's annoying, but I drive through it, and then it sounds great. The blurbling (technical term) when downshifting is spectacular. I've heard aftermarket exhausts I liked a bunch more, but for $33 you can't really go wrong here. Cost $35
• TT chip impressions It's really hard to get more power out of a VR6 because VW did a darn good job in the first place. But adding an aftermarket chip to alter the timing and fuel delivery can help a little (3-10 hp). My chip from Techtonics really helps the high end from 4000 RPM on up. I put the stock chip back in for a week, and my usual 3rd gear bonzi from 4000 to 6000 RPM on a certain curve wasn't nearly as fun. I'd like to try Garrett's chip, but the TT is still better than stock. And if anything, my average fuel economy improved by a mpg or two. Cost $100
• K&N filtercharger impressions For the long haul. This filter will last as long as the car will, with regular cleanings. It fits in the stock airbox. Restored the low-end torque caused by the removal of my mid-muffler. $45 price from New Dimensions will pay for itself within 2 dealer-bought elements (changed every 30K miles).
• Replacing the poly ribbed serpentine drive belt Done at 60k miles, per VW. Not so easy to take out, but cake to put back in. Use a metric M8x80 coarse thread bolt to loosen the auto belt tensioner. The belt cost about $75 from the local dealer. My old one had small cracks all over and was starting to look "glossy".
• Replacing the windshield washer fluid tank For whatever reason, the tank that holds the windshield washer fluid developed a 3" long crack on the bottom. Replacement was easy, but necessitated removal of the battery. Cost $15
• Redline MT-90 transmission fluid. Replaced the factory synthetic after 2.5 years. I didn't notice much difference, good or bad. The old stuff was very watery though.

PROBLEMS:

• ABS Covered under warranty. Took 9 days to diagnose. Replaced everything but the physical brakes. Was ABS controller computer. Symptom: ABS light came on when the car was started warm, disabling the ABS and traction control.
• Oil filter housing Not under warranty (didn't even try). Dealer hacks in Massachusetts stripped the allen fitting to remove the aluminum plug in the filter housing. Made a mess when changing my own oil.
• Belt tensioner Covered under warranty. Made an awful screetching sound at idle sometimes.
• A/C Not under warranty (2/24 expired).
• Plug wires Covered under 50k mi emissions warranty. Insulation faulty, caused wires to arc against engine block. No power above 4000 rpm, and
• Coil Pack Not under warranty. Left me stranded at home.
• Heated Seat (passenger side) Not under warranty. Electric relay and wires shorted and died when they came loose and were streteched when the seat was moved back.

TIRES:

• Goodyear GA impressions - Terrible. Stock 205/50-HR15 size. I've seen GA's on Neon, LX400, Grand Cherokee, and a million others. No tire is that versatile - if it tries, it fails. Replace these ASAP and get better cornering, braking, acceleration, and reduction of torque steer.
• Continental TS-750 impressions - Terrible, even for a snow tire. I tried the 185/55 TR15. Well, they're decent in the snow, but the dry handling is even worse than the GA's. As soft as a marshmellow. I sold them for $10 each. Yeuchhh.
• Goodyear GS-C impressions - Pretty darn good. Not made in the 205/50-ZR15 size anymore, so I got them for $75/per. So much better than the GA's, I'm surprised they're designed by the same company. Since they're Z rated (over 149mph) they hum on some concrete roads, and are stiffer over bumps. The VR6 should come with tires like this.
• Pirelli P-210a impressions - Pretty darn good for a snow tire. Excellent in the snow, and better than the GA's in the dry. Not as nice as the GS-C's, but very stable when cornering. No visable wear during my first season, and I drove them as hard as any summer tire. Mounted on their own steel wheels (to save me the $50 every change of season).

Last updated 25 July 1998
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